From Georgetown to the interior

The journey begins in Georgetown, Guyana’s coastal capital and the point at which the country’s many cultural influences become most visible. British colonial architecture sits beside markets, restaurants and kitchens shaped by Indigenous, African, Indian, Chinese and Portuguese traditions.

Beyond the coast, the scale changes. Roads become rougher, rivers become transport routes and light aircraft connect places that would otherwise take days to reach. Becca describes looking down on apparently endless rainforest from a small plane before landing near isolated lodges and communities.

Wildlife without the wildlife park

Guyana’s animals are not arranged for convenient viewing. They are genuinely wild, which makes each encounter feel earned. Becca saw caiman, anacondas, peccaries and a remarkable variety of birds. Jaguars eluded her in person, only for camera traps she had helped place at Wichabai Ranch to record two animals after she had moved on.

On the Mahaica River, the star is the hoatzin, Guyana’s national bird. With red eyes and a flamboyant crest, it looks improbably prehistoric. At Caiman House in Yupukari, visitors can learn about black caiman research and observe conservation work under expert supervision.

Kaieteur Falls

Becca’s essential Guyana experience is Kaieteur Falls. The Potaro River gathers itself on a forested plateau before plunging 226 metres in a single drop into a mist-filled gorge. Most visitors arrive by light aircraft from Georgetown, turning the journey itself into part of the spectacle.

Community-run travel

Many interior stays are small, locally or Indigenous-owned eco-lodges. Meals are shared at set times, electricity may be solar-powered and air conditioning is unlikely, but the reward is access to people who understand the landscape intimately. Tourism income can support community projects and provide alternatives to extractive work.

What does Guyana taste like?

For Becca, the dish to remember was coconut choka: roasted coconut pounded with garlic, chilli and seasoning, then served beside curry. Cassava bread, fish, rice, beans, tropical fruit and generous jugs of fresh juice also recur throughout her journey.

Planning your own journey

Independent travel is possible, but Guyana rewards advance planning. Many lodges take reservations directly, often through WhatsApp, and card payments cannot be assumed. River levels and road conditions vary sharply with the rains, so the best timing depends on the route and wildlife experience you want.

Listen to the full episode above, then explore our Guyana guide and supporting articles for a closer look at Kaieteur Falls, community eco-lodges, Georgetown and Guyanese food.